Brittany off the beaten track: Brocéliande, a land of legends

French Poet Chrétien de Troyes set the adventures of the knights of the Round Table in the 12^th century, in the thousand-year-old forest of Brocéliande, where lived Merlin the enchanter and the fairy Viviane, better known as the Lady of the Lake. Since then, Brocéliande has been a world apart, where magic and history are intimately intertwined. To touch its essence for yourself, head for the Val sans Retour (Vale of no Return), in the heart of Paimpont Forest: according to legend, this deep valley, lined with red schist rocks, is the domain of Morgan le Fay, Arthur’s half-sister, who once trapped faithless knights there.

Following the well-trodden paths of the Vale of no Return, you reach the Fountain of Barenton, a key site in Arthurian myths. This is where Merlin is said to have met Viviane the Lady of the Lake for the first time. Surrounded by centuries-old oak trees, this fountain is reputed to have magical powers: a single drop of water upon the stone would bring about a storm!

To find out more about the legend of King Arthur, head for the Château de Comper, in Concoret. Located on the shores of Lake Comper, this ancient medieval fortress is home to the Centre de l’Imaginaire Arthurien: the museum’s exhibitions take you into the world of the Round Table, from the tale of the Lady of the Lake to stories of the quest for the Grail. The castle is also the ideal starting point for exploring the surrounding area, following the trails through the forest and the events dedicated to the many tales and legends of Brittany.

Close by, near the small Marette Pond, Merlin’s tomb is a very interesting spot. Made of two megalithic stones, this modest cairn is, according to legend, the final resting place of the famous enchanter, although the megalithic stones’ exact origins remain unclear. If you would like to learn more about Merlin, you can hire local storytellers to take you on a guided walk (in French).

On the edge of the Paimpont Forest, in the small village of Tréhorenteuc, the Church of the Grail is a very unusual place. It was the work of a visionary priest, Abbé Gillard, who in the early 1940s wanted to celebrate the link between the Christian faith and the legends of the Round Table. He commissioned stained glass windows and frescoes depicting the quest for the Grail. Since then, the church has been a must-see for anyone with an appreciation of art and legends.

For once, you won’t be exploring the Arthurian world there, but an even more ancient heritage just a few kilometres from the forest of Brocéliande: a group of 42 megalithic stones rising towards the sky, along with hundreds of menhirs, laid out 6,500 years ago! You can take a trail leading to three reconstructed areas – a Neolithic village, a menhir site and an archaeological site. If you’re a walker or cyclist, there are two great circuits waiting for you: le Chaperon rouge (14 km) and la boucle des Mégalithes (15 km).

End your exploration of Brocéliande with the whole at the Door of Secrets, located in the outbuildings of the former Paimpont Abbey. This presentation-tour lasts about an hour and gives you the opportunity to discover local legends and the history of the forest from a whole new angle, with an immersive walk combining storytelling and natural discoveries. A fun and enchanting place for young and old alike!