In the footsteps of Victor Hugo, between Paris and Guernsey
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Victor Hugo, the chief figure of French Romanticism, left his mark on a number of places steeped in history, such as Paris and Guernsey. Traveling between France and the Channel Islands can give you privileged insight into the writer, his abundant creativity and the landscapes that fed his work.
The Maison de Victor Hugo in Paris, the literary giant’s humble abode
On Place des Vosges, in the heart of the Marais district of Paris, there lies the flat where Victor Hugo lived from 1832 to 1848. Turned into a museum in 1903, this home lets you into the private life and intimate world of the artist through personal items, period furniture and original manuscripts. The tour follows the chronological order of his life, uncovering the different facets of the man as a writer, the man as a poet, as a playwright, as a draughtsman and even Victor Hugo the politician. Each room tells its own story: his study, where you can just imagine the endless hours of work; the Chinese drawing room, decorated by Hugo himself; and the red drawing room, where the most illustrious writers of his century sat down, from Balzac to Lamartine.
The author of Notre-Dame-de-Paris wrote several major works in his flat on the Place des Vosges, including Lucrezia Borgia and Ruy Blas, as well as parts of Les Misérables and Les Contemplations.
Hauteville House, his refuge in exile on Guernsey
Exiled during the Second Empire, from 1852 to 1870, Victor Hugo settled in 1856 on the Channel Island of Guernsey, 50 km off the Cotentin coast, France. For fifteen years, the author transformed Hauteville House, the building he acquired on the heights of Saint-Pierre-Port. A decorator with a vision, he furnished the manor himself, going wild with his imagination: every corner of the house, from the cosy billiard room to the spectacular oak gallery, reflects his artistic vision. On the top floor, the look-out, an entirely windowed room that he had built on the roof, gives you a breathtaking view of the port and the neighbouring islands of Herm and Sark.
His exile in Guernsey was a prolific period for the writer, who found in this house an exceptional creative haven: this was where he completed Les Misérables and wrote Toilers of the Sea.
St Peter Port, following in Victor Hugo’s footsteps
Just like Victor Hugo in his time, enjoy wandering through the cobbled streets of St Peter Port, Guernsey’s main town, built in an arc on the island’s east coast. In its streets lined with old houses, you will discover Town Church, the parish church mentioned in Toilers of the Sea, and the lovely Victoria Tower, a secret meeting place for Victor Hugo and his mistress Juliette Drouet. Below Hauteville House, Havelet Bay beach was also one of the author’s favourite spots. There, he liked to sit facing the sea, imagining the epic tales that were to leave their mark on French literature.
The island of Sark, an authentic land from which Hugo drew inspiration
Accessible by boat from Guernsey, the island of Sark offers a wild and unspoilt setting that inspired Victor Hugo on many occasions. While walking this island’s trails, the writer found the peace and clarity of mind he needed for his writing, free from the ceaseless worries of the world. Even now, the car-free island welcomes a handful of knowing nature lovers in its rugged landscapes. Steep cliffs, flower-carpeted moors, hidden beaches and secluded coves… On foot or by bike, prepare to be delighted as you lose yourself in these enchanting surroundings. The steepest paths on the island offer spectacular views, such as La Coupée, a narrow isthmus linking the two parts of the island, from which you can see the Cotentin coastline on the horizon.
©Uwe Moser
Right of the Chemin de la Coupée, there is a staircase leading down to Baie de la Grande Grève 80 metres below, at the foot of the cliff. In summer, this unassuming beach is ideal for a swim in the cool waters of the English Channel.
The Panthéon, his final resting place in Paris
After his return from exile and a life in Paris rife with literary and political causes, Victor Hugo died in Paris on 22 May 1885. A few days later, the writer would enter his final resting place at the Panthéon, in the Latin Quarter, following a grandiose funeral attended by almost two million people in the streets of the capital. Since then, he has been laid to rest alongside other literary giants such as Voltaire and Zola in this national temple dedicated to the great figures of the French Republic.
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