The town centre is home to this couple of professionals who met in Paris at William Ledeuil’s Ze Kitchen. He is in the kitchen, she at the front of house and together they have crafted this irresistible gourmet gem. The chef works with the meticulousness of a jeweller: fresh local produce that varies with the season, high-precision, slow cooking techniques, aromas and colours. We feasted on a beef tartare with an iced oyster cream dotted with samphire, followed by pearlescent cod in a sesame seed and roast buckwheat crust, coated with a punchy jus of saffron-flavoured cockles.