A classical interior lies behind the large windows of La Flamiche. Here, cuisine with robust traditional foundations is enhanced by a touch of modernity: one example would be the duck foie gras and smoked trout in a Granny Smith jelly, cucumber pickles and apple chutney – a beautifully crafted starter. Then there are the medallions of monkfish with lime, carrot and rocket, perfectly cooked in butter, the good old-fashioned way.