The sleek, elegant room stands in an osmanthus forest, the sweet scent of which lingers in the air in autumn. Once you set foot inside, the earthy smell of black tea takes over – tea-smoked dishes such as crispy skin chicken exude intoxicating aromas. The menu is dominated by Zhejiang classics made with seasonal ingredients from across the country. Try the river fish cooked with dried bamboo shoot, too. The tea ceremony at each table is quite a spectacle.