Look completely past the strip mall location and head into this storefront for some of the more nuanced Thai cooking around. Pop music and colorful plastic tablecloths create a leisurely, relaxed mood. This kitchen is helmed by an ex-Hawker Fare chef, so expect spice blends and house-made curry pastes at the base of each dish. The menu is small but mighty, with items that exude a playful spirit. Nowhere is this clearer than in the “party wings,” which sound like a good time but in fact have great depth of flavor. Nam kao todd is coated in a house-made red curry paste, fried until crispy, hit with fish sauce and layered with tendrils of pork skin and crumbles of fermented pork for a vibrant taste with just the right amount of heat.