Lemo is one of the most fabulous sites in Tana Toraja. As well as for its tongkonan and lofty-roofed rice barns, the place is known for its remarkable rock tombs. Dominating the paddy fields, the sheer cliffs are dotted with countless burial places and niches containing tau tau: squeezed behind their railings, the effigies of noblemen stand in dignified rows, their large eyes seeming to follow the visitors milling about at their feet. Despite being a tourist hotspot, Lemo has retained its magic.