In the heart of the Royal Monceau, the corridor leading to your table is embedded with thousands of mother-of-pearl shells, in an elaborate and artistic tribute to the nymphs of Italian Baroque. The dining room, set in what looks like a conservatory painted in spring colours, resembles a genuine winter garden flanked by an alfresco area. In the kitchen, Oliver Piras and Alessandra Del Favero subtly conjure up Italian dishes that are deliciously free of fussy nonsense. Their cooking is meticulous, spot on and flavoursome and aims to highlight the natural tastes and flavours of painstakingly selected star ingredients. The same approach is true of the wine cellar which demonstrates a distinct soft spot for Piedmont and Tuscan wines.