The restaurant stands on the site of Yakitori Ichimatsu, the restaurant where the chef apprenticed, hence the name – a word formed by taking one character from Ichimatsu and one from the word meaning ‘hometown’. The omakase menu begins with flavour-rich chicken ham. Seasoning shifts from salty to sweet dipping sauce, offering a variation from light to rich flavours. Yakitori chicken is delicate, gauged according to the size of the chunks when bitten and the texture on the teeth.