The room is the epitome of lavish maximalism – one wall is covered in a 35-metre-long Suzhou silk embroidery with a chrysanthemum theme. On the menu, ingredients from around the world are used to make refined Cantonese dishes, including labour-intensive items from ancient recipes. Crispy skin squab with lemongrass uses 18-day birds from Shiqi, boasting juicy flesh and mild smokiness. The menu can appear overwhelming, so ask servers for recommendations.