Set in a modern hotel, this restaurant reflects the Franco-Italian roots of its chef, Daniele Raimondi. His “Ascension” menu rolls out crisp, legible flavours that refuse to compromise on quality: Carnaroli risotto with gorgonzola; agnolotti of smoked ricotta, pistachio and lemon confit; lamb cooked over embers, broccoli orecchiette and Taggiasche olives. One terrace backs onto the street, while another, quieter, overlooks a peaceful square.