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A legendary establishment if ever there was, Le Taillevent, which belongs to the Gardinier family that also owns Les Crayères in Reims, is the epitome of French classicism. This genuine institution, once the private mansion of the Duke of Morny (19C), is depicted by a hushed and intimate interior, dripping in special occasion indulgence. Dishes include scallops, butternut, grapefruit and almonds, "Taillevent tradition" scampi black pudding or sole melba in herbs, cauliflower and caviar. The desserts are heavenly, especially the crêpes Suzette, flambéed first with Grand Marnier and then with Cognac – a classic. Finally, we must extol the superb wine list that reads like a compendium of vintage tipples…