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Floris Van Der Veken is following in the footsteps of his mentor, Peter Goossens. He has taken over this elegant welcoming farmstead and culinary landmark, whose codes he continues to uphold. As attentive as ever, Serge Sierens seamlessly supervises the front of house. A quick glance at the menus reveals the importance given to the ingredient. Corrèze lamb rules supreme in raviolis or in a medium rare saddle of lamb coated in a powerful meaty jus. This last-minute approach to dining demands painstaking attention, phenomenal knowhow and a scattering of international notes. The kitchen team attaches equal importance to a lowly leek or a noble turbot. Save room for afters, because the dessert trolley remains a highlight of this venerable establishment. It is also a pleasure to witness chef Van Der Veken’s quest for his own culinary identity.